Home / De Antwerpse goudsmid Emile Anthony en zijn “Bijoux Anthony” (1885-1897)

De Antwerpse goudsmid Emile Anthony en zijn “Bijoux Anthony” (1885-1897)

TitelDe Antwerpse goudsmid Emile Anthony en zijn “Bijoux Anthony” (1885-1897)
Academic DepartmentKULeuven
Aantal pagina's116
Thesis TypeMasterscriptie

Emile Anthony (1856-1936) was a passionate gold- and silversmith working in the Antwerp based family business. In 1885 Emile Anthony applies for a number of patents on a new jewellery line he calls “Bijoux Anthony”. His
jewellery, made of gold or silver, display a new type of application of enamel from the region Bresse in France. Emile Anthony mounts the enamels called ‘Émaux Bressans’ in his jewellery like precious stones and he combines the enamels with diamonds and other gemstones such as pearls, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. His apply concerns patents for the technique he developed for the mounting of the enamels, and for the new way he incorporates the enamels in modern jewellery. These colourful enamels were already in use in Belgian regional jewellery, known as “Bijoux Flamands”,
but Anthony’s improvement was to combine them with diamonds or gemstones. “Bijoux Anthony” was a modern and improved application in comparison with the jewellery of the region Bresse.

Emile Anthony exhibits his “Bijoux Anthony” at the ‘Exposition Universelle d’Anvers’ in 1885, at the ‘International Exhibition of Navigation, Commerce, and Industry’ of Liverpool, United Kingdom in 1886 and possibly at the ‘Exposition Universelle d’Anvers’ in 1894. He is rewarded with a golden medal in 1885 and 1886, and in various publications he is discussed and the jewellery is praised. In 1897 Emile Anthony and Wolfers Frères, a renowned jeweller from Brussels, establish ‘Emile Anthony & Wolfers Frères’. The jewellery develop to distinct art nouveau and art deco styles.

Recently two pieces of the “Bijoux Anthony” are purchased in an auction in Brussels. (Ill. 39) The fine pair of earrings and brooch exactly meet the definition of the “Bijoux Anthony”. These pieces of jewellery are hallmarked with a previously unknown signature formed by an ‘E’ combined with an ‘A’ and an ‘A’ above the word ‘Breveté. (Ill. 40). This signature can definitily be attributed to Emile Anthony since it can be compared with his signatures on various jewellery designs. (Ill. 15-18)

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